Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri struck a perfect balance between simplicity and opulence in the brand’s haute couture AW24/25 collection.
Held in the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris, the show was an exploration of the power of basics, studying deceptive fabrics and sober palettes.
Chiuri set out to trace a direct line from the ancient Grecian draped peplos via the liberating fashion of the 1920s and into the active lives of women today.
Grecian sandals and metallic fringe were rife on the Dior runway (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
The collection was embellished in gladiator accents, calling to mind the golden age of Greece, as the models embodied latter-day goddesses draped and dripping in monochrome shimmers.
The body remained at the core of every garment, as Chiuri allowed humble fabrics to drape and fall around the frame, often revealing embellished bodysuits and bodices beneath – a subtle nod to the outstanding strength women throughout history have harboured within.
Gold moiré and dazzling silhouettes saturated the collection (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
Accents of athleticism were marked by the proliferation of bodysuits, which were illuminated in mirrored embroidery for eye-catching impact. A particular standout exhibited an entirely embellished bodysuit in a plume of dazzling gilded feathers, a tribute to the savoir-faire of the Parisian plumassier craft.
An athletic gold feathered bodysuit stole the show (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
Dior’s daywear was softer, arriving in the form of cape silhouettes, cut-out details and drape-front trousers. Chiuri fused draping with straight-sewn pleats to create extremely fluid and organic lines, contradicting the precision of the garment’s assembly.
Draped formal wear and excess ribbons reigned supreme (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
The use of fringe emphasised the fluid and frenetic nature of the collection, epitomising the femininity of movement, as gowns swished and shimmered with every step.
Homage to the roaring Twenties was made in the form of neutral flapper fringing (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
Chiuri once again favoured the watery moiré textile as the statement textured fabric throughout. Other fabrics possessed an alluring sense of ambiguity, with rich velvets and substantial jersey’s bearing the hallmarks of a plush weighted satin, used to sculpt skirts and gape necklines.
Slouchy silhouettes created through draping created sumptuous sculpting (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
The colour palette mimicked Dior’s spring-summer collection earlier this year, staying within the realm of camel, blush and monochromes. White and black looks were enriched with muted metallics that weaved shades of ochre, salmon and sunset gold throughout.
Pops of burnt umber, rich honey yellow and pale pink peppered the runway (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
Celebrities sitting front row included singer Jennifer Lopez, and tennis star Venus Williams, both adorned in couture from Dior’s spring-summer collection.
Jennifer Lopez wore a neutral Fifties style Dior gown with leather accessories (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
Venus Williams wore a dripping metallic flapper gown with minimal makeup and fine jewels (Vianney Le Caer/AP)
Words and images: PA Media
