Editors note: We invited Ashley Full, co-founded of Amour781 to share their journey into luxury plus size fashion, especially with a newly launched online retail brand, created specifically to cater to the luxury plus size shopper. We enjoyed their story and invited them to share their story with the TCF community!
The loss of my fashion identity was one that didn’t seem to just happen overnight, it seemed like it was a progression. I remember the day that I was looking for a new winter coat after my move to Chicago and I needed something much warmer.
I vividly remember shopping in the coat department and struggling to find one that zipped or buttoned over my chest. The shoulders were too tight, there was no way I could drive in it, without unzipping it, I was clearly frustrated and then the sales associate said, “you should probably try upstairs in our Plus Size department.”
Me? Plus Size?
I thought a 14/16 was still on the straight size scale, had I really crossed over? As I headed upstairs, I felt like the light got darker, the carpet became dingy and all eyes were on me as I ascended the escalator. I couldn’t help but notice right away the selection was not the same, where was the goose feather filled warm puffer coats, I was trying on downstairs?
These plus size coats were not nearly as functional or fashionable as the ones I previously tried.
As I walked the department, I was utterly baffled by the matronly selection of “plus size fashion.” As someone who worked in fashion, I thought there must be something better, I was in my late twenties and I still wanted to look fashionable, cute and trendy just like my peers. I searched and searched, nothing that fit with my previous style was available in my size.
My closet went from unique cool pieces to black on black on black. I was disappearing. I felt alone. Was I the only plus size girl who wanted to still look my age and feel good about what I was wearing, or was society telling me to disappear in floral poncho and oversized black shirt?
Fast forward a few years (and a few sizes later), social media has taken off and the plus size movement is more vocal. I realize there is a community of women desperately trying to look nice and find fashion for them. I started to do some research, finding that 67% of the population is a 14 and above, and that they’re also looking for luxury plus size fashion options that are sustainable, impeccably fitting, women-owned, and of course, fashionable.
Yet 15 years later, the plus size luxury space is still wide open for the taking.
Plus size women, are everything from CEOs to stay at home Moms. They’re also more likely to get overlooked for a promotion because of their appearance, or for their size. To think, if we just had a better wardrobe, what could that do for our mental health, our job, our overall lifestyle!?
Armed with my 20 plus years in fashion, I set off to create a place where plus size consumers can find fashion that meets their expectations of luxury, so there will be forever pieces in their wardrobe, and they can once again build a closet of items that allows them to express themselves. No more hiding.
What is plus size luxury?
Luxury is quality, exclusivity and usually higher price (depending on how you look at it, insert girl math). The plus size demographic is being underserved in this segment and it’s because designers haven’t taken the time or don’t want to take the time to scale their business or scale their designs into the proper size scale.
Why?
Well, a few factors to understand why the lack of options in the plus size luxury segment: the designers typically choose not to design for plus size because theoretically it is financially risky for them. Some also view it as less exclusive.
For example, Hugo Boss is designed to be slim and runs small, this is intentional because they only want to market to an exclusive group of people. Take that mindset and instead of excluding the plus size market, let’s make it all about the plus size market.
For luxury, sometimes it’s in the details it’s the embellishments, the embroidery, with plus size luxury, it’s the little, tiny details and finishes that set plus size luxury apart from contemporary plus size fashion.
The difference is in the details, like a piece of art. From afar you know it’s beautiful and eye catching, but once you look up close, you see the talented brush strokes that create different colors and textures. These talents apply to what you wear, it what’s makes it special.
When it comes to plus size luxury, we are not asking for different styles. We want access to it. Plus size comes in all ages and sizes, the designers just need to make some intentional tweaks for better fit so that we can enjoy them for years to come.
Armed with patience and determination, it was time for someone to disrupt this part of the market. We, the plus size consumer had been asking for beautifully crafted clothing, that will last more than a season, sophisticated, colorful and properly tailored.
The Beginning of My Plus Size Luxury Adventure
After endless conversations with smaller brands, who had more control over their production, we started to break into the plus size luxury market. We need our designers to not only be willing but also open to learning the plus size size scale.
I say this with emphasis, as so many brands don’t understand that an XXL is different than a 2X. Most brands that I started working with, take about a year to get the collection right to go into production. From sourcing the materials, to creating multiple samples to ensuring proper execution of fit, it all takes time.
Many of these brands are in done in house, or in small ethically run factories and because of this, it takes a little longer. Hand-beading, hand-embroidery, all details that adorn your new favorite dress or blouse, all take time.
Working with designers with incredible talent and the curiosity to design for plus is a rarity. However, designers like Adriana Contreras, Emily Lovelock, Marie Oliver, Jill McGowan and Catherine Gee just to name a few powerhouse women are helping to further disrupt the industry, alongside AMOUR781.
These designers have a keen understanding of the women’s body, so they have been able to understand scaling into the plus size market. Knowing that fit is the most important factor, followed by quality and style.
Amour781 is excited to offer more options in more sizes. Designers that were only comfortable going to a 3X are now more open to 4X and 5X. We have also made a lot of effort in design. Without compromising the integrity of the design, there are small hidden stretch panels in some of the blouses to allow a little extra room in the chest, or adding smocking to the back of dresses, again providing that flexibility since we all come in different shapes and sizes.
We currently work with a mix of smaller designers who make exclusive items just for Amour781 as well as national brands like, Never Fully Dressed and Liverpool Denim. I am excited to say coming in the next year we are adding even more designers to our exclusive list from Canada to Paris and a few stops in between.
This year look for matching sets, everything from tanks and pants to polo’s, bag shorts and tennis skirts, we have sets. It was important to look at these options not only because as a set they look good but to look at from a financial one.
The possibilities are high when it comes to mix and matching, so you can really diversify your wardrobe with just one set.
We want to make getting dressed fun and easy. You should also expect lots of dresses. Everything from some great wear to work options, leaning into that “polo Ralph Lauren” feel, to a Greek goddess vacation.
My rule of thumb when getting dressed, if you can’t figure out what to wear, a dress will always do the trick. We know a lot of ladies are concerned about their arms, so we have made sure to add more options with sleeves, or dusters. I personally love a long duster. To me, it’s a great outfit creator or finisher. Wear jeans, a white Tee, finish it with a duster to elevate the look. I also wear mine a lot as a beach cover-up. Again, proving the point that cost per wear (or girl math) can be more cost efficient if you invest in quality pieces to wear for years to come.
For the future of plus size luxury, I no longer see that dingy carpet or bad lighting from memories past, I see beautiful, bold, powerful plus size women, embracing fashion and plus size luxury in a way we haven’t seen before. And however Amour781 can help along that journey, I am here for it and you.
Have you began your plus size luxury journey yet? Did yours look like mine?
PS. Curious and want a chance to score a gift card to Amour 781? Enter our #TCFSweet16 Giveaway to score a $100 gift card to Amour781!